Will we have a mineral makeup?
Oh, if I had a dime for every email that I had to answer about this topic…….
The short answer is, yes, we are working on a mineral makeup that will be available in 2008.
Now, that begs the next question which is, “since we are always on the forefront of technology, why don’t we already have a mineral makeup?”.
This is a technology that I have been familiar with for quite a few years, since before the first mineral powder foundation was introduced to the US market. Not only am I familiar with it, I have worn it…yes, I have worn it, just like all the other products that we introduce to you. I could never, with all good consciousness, introduce a product to the market that I have not worn and tested on myself. Like any product, mineral foundations have their pros and their cons, in my opinion. Until recently, I have not been impressed enough with the technology of the various brands on the market to wish to duplicate this within our line. When we do bring this category of product onto the market, I can assure you that it will be a step ahead of the competition.
In case you aren’t familiar with this type of product, let me give you some information that will allow you to understand this category of powder foundations a little better and be able to separate fact from marketing hype.
First of all, it is important to realize that most pressed and loose powders, whether they are called “mineral makeup” or not, are made of minerals. Talc, which is the key ingredient in most foundations and powders on the market is a natural mineral and has been proven to be safe and effective despite any negative publicity that has been generated by competitive brands. Unlike other base ingredients, talc is also more oil absorbent and mattifying to the skin, while allowing the formula to blend beautifully, so it is more appealing to women who are looking for a less shiny look. With that being said, one could easily classify our wet/dry foundation as a pressed mineral makeup, since the majority of ingredients are technically minerals. In fact, our Tuscan Sun Bronzer is IDENTICAL to formulas that are being marketed as “mineral makeup”.
I keep hearing people say that they love mineral makeup because it is “all natural”. Well, this is marketing hype at its best. The key ingredient in mineral makeup is bismuth oxychloride, a synthetically manufactured colorant (according to the CTFA Ingredient database), this would disqualify these products from being marketed as “all natural”.
Here are some pros and cons to consider when choosing to use a mineral type foundation, whether it is a competitive brand or ours when we bring this product to the market:
Pros:
• Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (which is found in most foundations) provides broad-spectrum sun protection.
• Provides a sheer, natural looking medium coverage for normal to slightly oily skin types.
• Leaves a shiny luminescence on the skin (which can be a pro or a con, depending on how you look at it).
Cons:
• Looks muddy on oily skin and dry/cakey on dry skin.
• Because the particle size is so finely micronized, they can sink into the pores and cause them to become clogged unless a rigid cleansing regimen and masks are used to keep the pores free of pigment debris. Can make the skin “dirty” with continued use if skin is not properly cleansed.
• Can make the skin oily due to the heavier nature of the base ingredients.
• Can accentuate fine lines and wrinkles on the face as well as accentuate any fine facial hairs that may be present on the face.
• Typically more difficult to blend than other types of powder foundation that have a talc base.
So, that is my basic synopsis on this type of foundation. The bottom line is this – mineral makeup formulas are great, but not intended to be used by everyone. These types of foundations are not best suited for those who exhibit moderate to more advanced signs of aging, or skin that is oily or dry. If you have very few visible signs of aging and have combination to slightly oily skin, then this is a great type of foundation for you.
What are parabens and do they cause cancer?
Parabens are a class of preservatives (ingredients that help to prevent microbial contamination) that have been used in a wide variety of foods, drugs, and cosmetics to keep products safe. Parabens have a long history of use in these products, and have been specifically recognized as safe by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Additionally, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reviewed their use in cosmetics and concluded that they were safe.
The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act requires that cosmetics and non-prescription drugs and their individual ingredients must be safe and that labeling must be truthful and not misleading. The FDA can take immediate action to stop the sale of any product that does not meet its high standards. Given FDA regulation, commitment of the industry, and long history of safe use, consumers can have confidence in their cosmetics and non-prescription drugs.
As a member of the CTFA, we follow strict guidelines that restrict us to adhere to guidelines established by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review board.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) was established in 1976 by the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA) with support of the U.S. Food & Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America. Although funded by CTFA, CIR and the review process are independent from CTFA and the cosmetics industry. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review thoroughly reviews and assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics in an open, unbiased, and expert manner, and publishes the results in the open, peer-reviewed scientific literature.
The CIR Procedures established an Expert Panel to set priorities and review and assess ingredient safety data. The seven CIR Expert Panel voting members include physicians and scientists who have been publicly nominated by consumer, scientific and medical groups, government agencies and industry. Three liaison members serve as non-voting members representing the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA), Consumer Federation of America and Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA). By uniting industry, consumers and government, the Expert Panel creates a unique environment for discussions affecting public safety.
Working on the high priority ingredients, CIR staff conduct extensive literature searches, compile data and prepare draft reports. CIR staff organize the literature into chemistry, including physical properties and manufacture; use, including cosmetic and non-cosmetic; general biology, including absorption, distribution, and metabolism; animal toxicology, including acute, short-term, subchronic, and chronic studies, as well as dermal irritation and sensitization; and a clinical assessment, which may include epidemiology studies along with classic repeat insult patch tests. In vitro test data are also gathered and incorporated into the review.
If the open, scientific literature contains insufficient information, the Panel will call on industry or other interested parties to undertake specific studies or to provide previously unpublished data. After completion of a development process that includes multiple opportunities for public comment and open, public discussion of the report, a Final Report is issued. These final reports are available from CIR. Eventually, CIR final reports are published in the International Journal of Toxicology.
Understanding that parabens continue to be the subject of negative publicity, we have made efforts over the past 2 to 3 years to avoid using them in our products. The majority of new products that have been introduced over the past few years (with the exception of color products) have been paraben free and we will make efforts to incorporate paraben free formulas in every existing product as we re-formulate them.
Why don’t all of our products contain an SPF?
It is a well publicized fact that everyone needs to incorporate some form of UV and antioxidant protection into their skin care regimen. The days of walking outside without sun protection are over. In fact, it is estimated that over 85% of the visible signs of aging are caused by the sun. It is also estimated that the majority of the damage that you see in your skin today is the result of damage that occurred before the age of 20. So, needless to say, sun protection is crucial.
There are two types of ingredients that provide UV protection (SPF). There are chemical sunscreens and physical block sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens are typical sunscreens that you see on the market, Parsol 1789, being one of them. Physical sunscreens are comprised of natural ingredients – titanium dioxide and zinc oxide – that help put a physical barrier on the surface of the skin to protect from UV exposure.
Chemical sunscreens have a higher rate of allergic response in clients and cannot be tolerated by those with more sensitive skin or sun screen allergies.
Physical sunscreens are gentle to the skin, but can leave a white or gray glow to the skin (although much is being done to create invisible physical barrier sunscreens).
We do not include SPF ingredients in all of our products due to the fact that it would limit your client base if they were among the over 25% of the population that have a sunscreen allergy. In addition, there are studies that are being conducted that are linking extended exposure to high levels of SPF ingredients to sensitive skin conditions, such as rosacea.
We assume that all of our clients are using an MRP regimen, which would include Cell Block C SPF 20. With this assumption, your clients will get the UV protection that they need for normal daily wear.
We are currently working on new products that contain physical sunscreens, which will open the door to allowing us to put SPF benefits into more of our products.
WHEW! That was a lot of information! I will give you guys the weekend to absorb all of that information and will be back again on Monday with another topic for the week. Next week, my topic is How does BeautiControl Compare to Other Competitive Brands?.
Have a great weekend!