This is an article that I have posted in the past, but with the introduction of the new Skinlogics Clear, I have modified it to fit the new products and offer some additional information to help you better understand acne and the most effective ways to control acne breakouts.
If you are a person that is faced with acne problems, regardless of age, you know better than anyone else what a frustrating problem it is to deal with. While we are not surprised as adolescents to have teenage acne, we never expect the condition to persist well into our 30’s, 40’s, and even 50’s. Adult acne is on the rise and it is a real problem, affecting not only our appearance, but our self confidence. A very interesting fact is that teenage acne is more common in males, but adult acne is more common in females.
Out of all the skin care problems that I help people address on a daily basis, adult acne concerns are by far the most frequent. Today’s blog will help you better understand what causes acne, available cosmetic treatments for acne and help you determine when it is time for more aggressive treatments than a cosmetic product can offer.
The following is a very simple explanation of what causes an acne blemish. Understanding the problem will help you understand how to offer a solution:
- Oil glands are located in the hair follicle.
- Hormone fluctuations cause the skin to produce more oil.
- The oil bonds with dead skin cells and clogs the opening of the hair follicle.
- Oil continues to be produced, but since it cannot escape, the follicle swells with oil.
- In addition, a normal skin bacteria (P. acnes) begins to multiply rapidly in the clogged follicle, causing inflammation.
Basically speaking, acne can be caused by either and/or both internal and external reasons:
- External reasons would include infrequent or ineffective cleansing of the skin or using products that do not agree with a person’s individual skin needs. These types of blemishes are characterized by sporadic pimple development anywhere on the face. The good news is that this type of acne is the easiest to resolve by modifying one’s skin care routine.
- Internal reasons would include hormonal fluctuations as well as health issues that may trigger other conditions that might resemble acne such as rosacea or perioral dermatitis. Hormonal acne will most commonly develop along the hairline or the jawline and can range in severity from very mild to more severe, cystic conditions.
Regardless of the reason, the basic treatment of acne is the same:
- clean the skin (topical cleansing and exfoliation)
- purge the skin (increasing cellular turnover)
- discourage bacteria
- dry the blemish
There are several ingredients that are useful in the treatment of acne. These ingredients include:
- Salicylic acid – a very effective ingredient to use due to its multifunctional nature. This ingredient aids in topical exfoliation, provides anti-microbial characteristics as well as anti-irritant properties
- Benzoyl peroxide – an antibacterial ingredient that simultaneously discourages acne and dries the oil in the blemish.
- Sulfur – an antibacterial that works by breaking down the blackhead and whitehead
- Retinol – a derivative of Vitamin A is effective in treating acne by speeding the rate that the skin renews itself, thus pushing acne and acne causing debris out of the skin more quickly and efficiently.
We have found that the most effective regimen will provide a combination of all of these ingredients.
What can I recommend for my clients who have a breakout or skin irritation from a recommended regimen?
- First, assess the “breakout” to determine if it is a rash, acne breakouts or mila (small white bumps that never come to a head)
- A rash will manifest itself typically within the first 48 hours of use. Look for small, clustered blister like bumps that are typically red and irritated
- Acne breakouts are pimples that occur sporadically and often come to a head
- Milia is a condition caused by using a product that is too rich for your skin or by using too much of a leave-on product. Milia never comes to a head and can develop after using the products for several weeks or months
- If it is a rash, then stop using the products and try to identify the source of the irritation. Often, this can be done through a process of elimination. Use Skinlogics Sensitive Protective Services to help calm the irritation and allow it to calm before attempting to start the regimen again. Begin introducing products to the regimen one at a time to determine the cause of irritation.
- If it is an acne breakout, please note that this is not uncommon during the first 30 to 45 days after changing a regimen. If the acne continues beyond this time period, use the guidelines mentioned below for problematic or occasional acne breakouts
- If it is milia, begin by using less of all the products that you are currently using…a little goes a long way. If the milia continues, adjust your leave-on products to a line that is less emollient for your skin.
- To treat with cosmetics, see the recommendations below for treating a blackhead. Milia that has been in the skin for an extended period of time may require professional extraction. If topical cosmetic treatments fail to clear the pore, it may be necessary to consult a dermatologist or an esthetician to have the milia extracted.
What can I recommend for my clients who have occasional breakouts – meaning only during particular times of the month or one or two a week?
- Recommend the Skinlogics 20s line for them
- If this does not successfully treat the sporadic acne breakouts, substitute the Skinlogics Clear tonic for the Skinlogics tonic.
- Skinlogics Clear Blemish Duo used during periods of breakouts will help to shorten the life-span of the blemish.
AM Regimen
- Skinlogics Cleanser
- Skinlogics Scrub (AM or PM, 3 times per week)
- Skinlogics Tonic (or Skinlogics Clear tonic if breakouts are more frequent and severe)
- Skinlogics Moisturizer
- Skinlogics Clear Blemish Duo used as a spot treatment to help shorten the life of the breakout.
PM Regimen
- Therma Del Sol Detoxifying Body Facial (to absorb excessive oil and toxins from the skin – 2 to 3 times per week)
- Skinlogics Cleanser
- Skinlogics Scrub (AM or PM, 3 times per week)
- Skinlogics Tonic (or Skinlogics Clear tonic if breakouts are more frequent and severe)
- Regeneration Time to Go with retinol
- Skinlogics Moisturizer
- Skinlogics Clear Blemish Duo used as a spot treatment to help shorten the life of the breakout.
What can I recommend for my clients who have problematic acne breakouts – meaning constant, frequent and numerous breakouts?
- Recommend the Skinlogics Clear line of products.
- Use the Skinlogics Clear Purifying Scrub/Mask as a mask at least twice weekly.
AM Regimen:
- Skinlogics Clear Purifying Scrub/Mask (applied prior to cleansing 2 to 3 times per week)
- Skinlogics Clear Cleanser
- Skinlogics Clear Skin Tonic (2% salicylic acid)
- Cell Block C Multivitamin Serum capsules
- Skinlogics Clear Moisturizer
- Skinlogics Clear Blemish Duo - used as a spot treatment to help shorten the life of the breakout (The Blemish Gel will help to reduce inflammation and help free the trapped debris in the pore while the Blemish Lotion will help expedite the drying of the blemish)
PM Regimen:
- Skinlogics Clear Cleanser
- Skinlogics Clear Tonic
- Regeneration Time to Go with retinol
- Skinlogics Clear Moisturizer
- Skinlogics Clear Blemish Duo - used as a spot treatment to help shorten the life of the breakout (The Blemish Gel will help to reduce inflammation and help free the trapped debris in the pore while the Blemish Lotion will help expedite the drying of the blemish)
What can I recommend for the treatment of blackheads?
- A black head is caused by pore clogging debris that becomes oxidized and turns black. Black heads can be removed by removing the debris from the pores. Microderm Abrasion is great for clearing a blocked pore, although sometimes a more aggressive treatment is necessary to “pull” the debris out of the pore. You will find that a 2 to 3 times a week application of a mask such as the Skinlogics Clear Purifying Scrub/Mask or the clay based Luxuries of the Sea Scrub Masque or Therma Del Sol Detoxifying Body Facial is effective for drawing the debris out of the pores. Keeping the pores cleared of debris will help prevent future black head problems.
How long can I tell my clients it will be before they see results?
The skin will take a minimum of 30 days to recycle, so you cannot really anticipate breakouts to stop before this cycle has completed itself. Acne that you see today did not happen overnight. Acne that you see today has been in development for as long as 30 days and has just now come to the surface. 2 to 3 months is a very realistic amount of time to expect to see dramatic skin improvements.
What can I recommend for those clients who have acne on their bodies?
The best way to control acne on the body such as the chest, back, etc. is to apply a product that is left on the skin vs. one that is washed off. Of course thorough cleansing is crucial, and the Skinlogics Clear Cleansing Gel is great for the skin on the body as well as the face. One product that I highly recommend for acne on the body is the Skinlogics Clear Tonic. I have found it very beneficial to substitute the disc top cap with a spray pump, such as the one on the Herbal Hydrating Mist and apply a liberal amount to the affected area in the AM and PM for best results.
I feel like I have exhausted my options cosmetically, how do I know when it is time to refer my client to a Dermatologist?
Unfortunately, there will be times when the condition of acne that you are dealing with is more than can be treated with a cosmetic product. This does not mean that the products that you are recommending are not good, it simply means that your client requires more aggressive treatments. After you have tried the above recommendations for 3 to 4 months, and do not see signs of improvement, then it is time for medical intervention. A physician may recommend topical and/or ingestible antibiotics as well as medications that can help regulate hormones (birth control). Regardless of what your physician may recommend as a treatment for the acne, this will not be a replacement for good skin care. Skin Equations, for sensitive skin, or the basic Skinlogics line are both able to be used during medical treatments. I would not recommend Skinlogics Clear as it is very aggressive on its own and should not be combined with prescribed treatments.
Tips:
- Keep the regimen simple. It is best to find a basic regimen of products that treat the acne condition before adding other products to complicate the equation. Find success with a maintenance program before adding repair and prevention products.
- Understand the causes of acne and the available treatments for acne, this will help you provide topical solutions to address the problems that you are experiencing
- Be patient. There is no magic potion for ridding acne from the skin. Every person will respond to treatment differently than the next person. Listen to your skin, and find the combination of products and ingredients that work best for you.
I hope you find this information helpful. As always, please let us know if you have any specific questions and concerns. You can send questions to [email protected].
Have a great week.
