One of the most frequently asked questions is regarding how to address clients who suffer from problematic hormonal or cystic acne. This blog will help you understand the cause of acne and give you the words to say when you recommend the products that will address their concerns.
Normally, in a situation where I have a client that has mild or periodic acne breakouts, I would recommend that they take the skin s.p.a. quiz and use the recommended BC Spa Facial regimen; however, for problematic hormonal or cystic acne, it is best to use a regimen designed specifically for acne control. The trick to ridding the skin of acne is consistency and patience…neither of which come naturally for most people; however, is crucial if you want to get the condition under control. This is not a quick fix solution…this is a skin-altering regimen that will help the skin to act more normally.
Both teen and adult acne are caused by hormonal fluctuations. Women are most prone to hormonal acne breakouts in their teen years, during pregnancy, during their monthly cycle, when beginning, altering or discontinuing birth control medications, and during the menopause years. Inconsistencies in hormonal production will cause the sebaceous glands (oil glands) to overreact. This oil congests the pore, forming a plug which attracts and harbors bacteria. The gland continues to produce oil, and because it can't be released, swelling and inflammation result in the form of an acne blemish.
I guess you are wondering why I told you all of that? Well, when you understand the cause of the problem, you can understand the rationale of the solution. An effective regimen would include products that clean the pores, reduce oil production, extract any residue in the pore and discourage bacteria.
One thing that I learned quickly in this business is that everyone has "sensitive skin". In reality, few people have truly sensitive skin…in most cases they are either using the wrong products, don’t understand what the products are intended to do or have not given the skin time to adjust. When dealing with acne, unless someone indicates that they have diagnosed skin condition, rosacea, or some other condition that would result in overly sensitive skin, I would recommend the products that we know are going to be effective first, then make modifications as necessary.
AM/PM:
- Skinlogics Clear Cleansing Gel - deep cleanses without stripping oil and has a form of salicylic acid (which kills bacteria and reduces acne inflammation) in a form that provides an invisible film on the skin when the cleanser is rinsed away to help offer all day benefits.
- Skinlogics Clear Scrub/Mask - used as a mask 3 times a week, either AM or PM (contains sulfur to kill bacteria, and clay to extract impurities from the pores)
- Skinlogics Clear Tonic* - This is the magic bullet in the line. This product has an OTC drug level of salicylic acid and a unique mineral powder. Shake the product, apply to a tonic pad and swipe on skin. The mineral powder, saturated with the salicylic acid both kills bacteria and absorbs oil.
- Skinlogics Clear Mattifying Moisturizer - this is an oil absorbing moisturizer that contains micro-sponges that attract oil and deliver a matte finish to the skin.
Use this regimen (and only these products) for 4 to 6 weeks. The skin renews itself in the years under 30 about every 30 days. The multi-layers of the skin's epidermis trap toxins and residue and it can take the full 30 days to clear the skin and purge the toxins.
*The Skinlogics Clear Tonic is an alcohol-based product. Alcohol is a drying agent and is intended to dry the acne and reduce oil production in the skin. You will run across those who object to using a product containing alcohol, because it is drying…P.S. it is supposed to be, that’s why we use it in this formula. If the skin becomes dry or becomes irritated, reduce to once a day. If that is not enough, every other day, until the skin adjusts.
Hormonal acne, in both teens and adults, can be stubborn, and require additional treatment products. There are 2 other products that I would recommend for both teens and adults:
- Regeneration Overnight - containing retinol (a vitamin A derivative) which will help increase the rate that the skin renews itself, helping the skin purge toxins more quickly, regulating oil production and helping to reduce the heal time of the blemishes. This is a VERY aggressive product. The product is VERY likely to cause initial redness, perhaps topical dryness until the skin adjusts and likely some flaking…this is a VERY good thing, it means the product is working. If the symptoms become uncomfortable, simple reduce the use of this product to every other night or two until the skin adjusts. Add this product to the PM regimen, after tonic and before moisturizer.
- BC Bright Oxygen Infusion Radiance Masque - This unique treatment, used at least 3 times per week, infuses oxygen to the skin. Oxygen has the ability to kill bacteria and help purify the skin. This masque will help expedite the healing process of the skin and quickly eliminate active acne blemishes.
There is not one clear-cut solution for everyone when dealing with acne, particularly hormonal cystic acne and there are times when medical intervention is necessary. Antibiotics or other medications may be prescribed to supplement a good skin care regimen. This regimen, however, is one that I have found to be most effective. It is important not to use too many products on the skin, and once you normalize the skin and clear the acne, it is important not to add more than one product at a time to the skin care regimen. Anyone who suffers from problematic acne needs to understand that they have a problematic condition and the solution may take some trial and error to find the right regimen to perfectly fit what their skin requires. With our no-risk money back guarantee to our clients, working with you can be seen as your competitive advantage since you can deliver education and service.
Now this is important…when you encounter a client who has a problematic skin condition OR when you are recommending products that are highly concentrated and contain active cosmeceutical ingredients, it is important to tell the clients what to expect. I have found that if you lead with what they can expect, explain what the products are doing and how they are working, they will not be discouraged, or at least can anticipate some mild sensitivity, peeling, redness, increased breakouts, etc. The same would hold true when starting someone on any our skin care regimens contain more potent ingredients such as AHAs, PHAs, retinol, etc.
When consulting with a client before using this regimen, let them know that this is not going to be an overnight solution. It is possible that they will see an increase in acne production after they begin this regimen. This is part of the skin purging process. As much as they won’t want to hear it…the more severe the acne, the more likely the chances are that they will see an increase in breakouts before the condition improves. It is best to avoid products, during the initial stages of starting a new skin care regimen for acne control, that purge the toxins too quickly, unless an increase in acne breakouts is not a concern. Products like MicrodermApeel and BC Spa Detoxifying Clay Masque are all incredibly potent and effective products, but they WILL pull deeply rooted debris to the surface very quickly and most likely will cause a rapid increase of blemishes initially. This is not necessarily a deal-breaker, but something that you should tell your clients, and let them make the decision. I also recommend avoiding daily use of products that contain sun screen if you are prone to problematic acne. Ingredients that deliver and SPF have a tendency to clog pores and aggravate acne blemish formation.
In summary, when dealing with acne prone skin:
- Keep the regimen simple
- Consistent and persistent use is crucial
- Use for a minimum of 4 to 6 weeks before changing or discontinuing
- Less is more – too many products can be TOO MANY PRODUCTS!
- Clearly inform your clients what to expect when they begin using the products so they do not become alarmed or discouraged at the changes in their skin.
I hope you all have a great weekend. I am off to Fashion Week so check out my Facebook page to stay in the loop on all the excitement as BeautiControl hit’s the world’s largest fashion runways. Check back on Monday as we continue our BeautiControl 103 series addressing holding Spas and overcoming objections.
Ciao.
